Once the first pair of shrouds has been completed, the exercise is repeated on the other (starboard) side, then, back to the port side and so on. Because on the “real thing” the lanyards were constantly used to take up tension on the shrouds they were never tarred and should not be black. The “Lanyards”, made of the thinnest rigging cord, are then installed as shown in the adjoining drawing. At a latter stage, the double thickness of cord immediately above the upper deadeye will be bound with fine thread as shown as shown in some of our diagrams. Using glue, alligator clip and another wire spacer, the upper deadeye is attached to the shroud. The loose end of the rope then goes up, around the mast and down to the position of the lower deadeye immediately behind the first. The various names for the standing rigging are presented below. A Rigging Tool presented in the Tools section of our Catalogue will be helpful when rigging. Work from the centre of the ship out and try to avoid difficult and confined spaces. This is fairly straightforward and should present few difficulties. This includes the rigging of the Stays, Backstay, Bowsprit and Gammoning. It will also probably be necessary to use clear wax to eliminate any furry look in the cord. When any liquid dye has been used it will be necessary to stretch the cord by hanging it on a clothesline, with weights, to prevent it going slack after installation on the model. Black “Padawax” shoe colour is also very satisfactory.Black felt-tipped “Texta” is an easy way to colour the cord.The cord supplied with the kit can be coloured using black dye or “Raven Oil” as used by leatherworkers/saddlers.The use of black rigging “wax” gives a very authentic tarred look but it is difficult to do well.If you do want your standing rigging black, and black cord is not supplied in the kit then you can consider these options: For this reason, standing rigging is often, although not always, black on ship models. On an “actual” ship any Rigging which didn’t pass through a pulley block was coated with tar to help prevent it rotting. “Running” rigging, which is used to manipulate spars and sails.“Standing” or “Fixed” rigging, which is used to support the Masts and Bowsprit.The rigging of a ship can be divided into two main parts: We’ll either be able to advise you ourselves or refer you another modeller in your area who’ll be happy to help you with “hands-on” assistance. If having thought about it, you still have a problem then contact us. It is necessary to spend as much time thinking about the task at hand as actually doing it. In this small leaflet, we can’t hope to cover all the problems and queries that may be encountered in the construction of your model. The approaches described are not the only way of doing things and the order in which the various processes are carried out may be varied, within reason, to suit the individual modeller.īuilding a model ship is as much an exercise in using the mind as it is in using your fingers and hands.In particular, it must be emphasised that any illustrations used in this leaflet are purely for the purpose of example and may not relate to your specific model. This is a general guide only and is to be used in conjunction with any instructions and plans provided by the kit manufacturer.Modeller’s Shipyard has produced the following information as an introduction to the Rigging of a model ship. We do strongly recommend “Ship Modelling Simplified” by Mastini – it contains excellent advice on ship modelling in general and has a good section on rigging. For further information call our office or visit our website. This is a comprehensive set which shows all aspects of preparing the masts, spars and yards and the rigging for a period model. Highly recommended is a 3 DVD set available from Modellers Shipyard on Masting and Rigging. Whilst there are several specialised and very detailed books on masting and rigging, they are more concerned with matters of historical and technical accuracy than with the sort of advice that might help the beginner to understand the best way of going about what might appear to be quite a daunting task. In general, the instructions on rigging provided by the manufacturers of model ship kits are fairly sparse.
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